Finding the Best Chemical Exfoliators

By knowing your skincare goals before choosing a chemical exfoliant, you’ll have a better idea of which formulas will work well for you. If you want to reduce and prevent breakouts, for instance, a BHA like salicylic acid is probably the best place to start. AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid are great choices if you want to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. And if you have very sensitive skin, PHAs like gluconolactone are a good alternative to BHAs and AHAs.

To achieve multiple skincare goals with one product, consider trying a serum or toner that has multiple chemical exfoliants in different categories — such as a serum with AHAs and PHAs. This is a much better solution than trying to mix and match individualized treatments on your own, which could lead to serious irritation.

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Chemical Exfoliators

In order to pick the right chemical exfoliator, it’s important to keep the strength of the formula, active ingredients, non-active ingredients, and price in mind. Understanding your skin type will also help.

Strength

While certain types of exfoliants are more irritating than others, the concentration in a formula can make a huge difference. For example, a solution that contains multiple, potentially irritating chemical exfoliants in very low doses (such as the Selfless by Hyram Mandelic Acid and Rice Bran Serum) may be milder than a solution that contains just one exfoliant in a high dose (such as the Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA).

If you have sensitive skin, try starting out with low-concentration products, such as a 1 to 2% BHA treatment, a 2 to 5% AHA treatment or a 3 to 5% PHA treatment.

Active Ingredients

The chemical exfoliants in your serum, toner or solution are the active ingredients, and they are responsible for helping you reach your skincare goals. Here are the basics of AHAs, BHAs and PHAs to get you started:

“AHAs such as glycolic acid and lactic acid work on the surface to remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture,” says Andrei Gherghina, board-certified dermatologist and cofounder of OCEANS Dermatology. “BHAs like salicylic acid go deeper into pores and help treat acne and blackheads. PHAs such as gluconolactone are gentler alternatives to AHAs and have less chance of irritation for ppl with sensitive skin.”

Non-Active Ingredients 

Sometimes, the active ingredients in your chemical exfoliant aren’t the issue. Alcohols, fragrance and colorants are also likely to cause irritation and flaky skin, and these non-active ingredients may counteract the beneficial effects of AHAs, BHAs and PHAs. We recommend avoiding products that contain these non-active ingredients.

Price

Unfortunately, chemical exfoliants can get pricey quickly. Products that last at least a month typically cost between $10 and $30, though some can cost as much as $100. (Indeed, our most expensive recommendation costs $84 for one ounce!) If your budget is tight, we believe you can achieve great results without having to spend more than $20 on your exfoliant.

Skin Type 

Skin types greatly influence whether products work well or not. If you have oily skin, for instance, you can likely tolerate a salicylic acid treatment which does an excellent job of absorbing excess oil and unclogging pores. If you have dry skin, you may want to start with an AHA like lactic acid instead, which doesn’t penetrate as deeply. And if you have sensitive skin, a PHA is your best bet.

What Are the Different Types of Chemical Exfoliators?

There are three categories of chemical exfoliators: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs).

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

“AHAs, sourced from fruits and milk, gently break the bonds between dead skin cells, rejuvenating your skin's texture and reducing fine lines — perfect for dry or sun-damaged skin,” says Weinberg. In addition, they tend to be milder than BHAs and a little stronger than PHAs. Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and citric acid.

Beta Hydroxy Acids

“BHAs target clogged pores, reduce inflammation and manage excess oil, making them a go-to for acne and oily skin,” says Weinberg. In addition, BHA penetrates the skin more deeply than AHAs or PHAs to help clear out pores. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid — few other BHAs are mild enough.

Polyhydroxy Acids

“PHAs, similar to AHAs but gentler, suit sensitive skin types, offering moisture retention and antioxidant benefits,” says Weinberg. PHAs don’t penetrate the skin as deeply as AHAs or BHAs, which is what makes them easier on sensitive skin. Common PHAs include gluconolactone, galactose and lactobionic acid.

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